Yesterday was the Palio. It takes place once in July and once in August. Since we've been here the city has been buzzing in anticipation of the Palio, with parades around every corner, the sound of drums in the distance, flags around each neighborhood and scarves worn with pride. As I've mentioned in previous posts there were trials/practice runs called Provas in beginning on Saturday night and continuing in the morning and evening every day until the Palio.
The whole race is completely random really, the only thing each contrada has control over is the jockey. They hire their own jockeys (typically they are from southern Italy) but their horses are "randomly" chosen by lottery as is their place in the line up. Nine of the ten horses line up as they are called and the tenth one hangs back. Once everyone is in place, the last horse gets a running start and the race is off. This sounds easy, but in reality getting the horses to line up is quite a feat combined with enemy contradas trying to mess things up, etc.
Steph and I went to the lottery drawing of the horse, four of six Provas and of course the Palio. The last evening Prova the Carabinieri (the national military police of Italy) charged around the track on horseback with swords drawn. As they went around the crowd cheered. The morning Prova was far less crowded than the evening ones. The first night we went, we thought there's no way it could get more packed, but we were so wrong. Each night it got progressively more and more crowded until Palio day.
The Palio began at 7:30 and by began I mean the horses came out and began trying to line up. After several tries there was a false start, so they had to begin again. After 6 we stopped counting how many tries it took to get lined up. But before I get too far ahead of myself, I have to begin much earlier in the day. We met up with part of our group around 3:00 in the Campo. We spread out and claimed a place just down from the starting line. As it got later and later more of our group showed up as did the rest of the city. It was hot and directly in the sun, but as time went on the sun began to set behind the buildings and we were in the shade from about 5ish on. At around 5:30ish, the parade began filing into the Campo area. Everyone marching was in full medieval attire, there were city officials and representatives followed by each of the racing contradas (jockeys, the horses racing, flag throwers, drummers, a knight and other representatives of each contrada marched as part of the parade). Then after the racing contradas marched in, the remaining seven contradas marched in followed by representative knights from the suppressed contradas. These were contradas that have been absorbed over time into the 17 that are remaining today. All of this was followed by a cart carrying the Palio, which is a banner and the prize (aside from the pride of winning) of the race. As the cart went around it stopped for each contrada to pay homage by waving their scarves in the air.
By the time this had all taken place it was time for the Palio to begin. The cannon sounded and the horses came out, circled around a few times and then began lining up. As they began lining up the a hush fell over the crowd. After about thirty to forty-five minutes of trying to line up they finally got it and they were off. Several riders fell off (or were tackled off) of their horses early on in the race. The funny thing is the horse can still win the Palio, without a rider. Almost as soon as it started it was over. Oca (the goose) won the Palio. Immediately celebration began. I was standing facing the track with my back to most of the crowd when ended and Steph suddenly yelled "Melissa" and pulled me over, only seconds before a crowd of Ocas charged past us. I'm telling you these men looked crazy as they charged to the race track to celebrate.
It was a fun experience and I am so glad I went to the Palio. It will be something I always remember, but I am not sure it is something I'd want to do again. There were thousands of people packed into the Campo many of whom smoked and had no regard for those of us who did not. We stood for hours before it even began so by the time it was over, we were exhausted. All of that to say, it was well worth it to see it once; To see the excitement, the tension, the passion, and the rivalry.
Today has been incredibly quiet around the city compared to every other day we've spent wandering the city. The spontaneous parades, the singing, the chanting, the flags and the festivities will be missed, but it will be fun to see Siena back to a normal town for a while.
If you're up for it and happen to be in Italy around Palio time, I highly recommend coming to Siena for a visit. You most definitely will not be sorry.
Again, there were just too many pictures to upload here so I made an album of all of the Palio festivities. Check it out here!
Until next time, Ciao!
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